So China’s anti-Facebook and more importantly, anti-Twitter laws are going to make me blog as we travel (as opposed to tweet furiously!). I hope we can keep this up and bring some life to this new page on my photography website! This is a quick entry written minutes before our tuk-tuk arrives to take us to the bus station at 6 AM!
Will write from China next!
December 2009
Pushkar, Rajasthan, India
Pushkar is a holy town in Rajasthan separated from the city of Ajmer by a mountain range. In Sanskrit, the word Pushkar means lotus flower. One mythological legend states that the Gods set free a swan with a lotus in its beak. Wherever the swan was to drop that lotus, Lord Brahma would perform a ritual prayer ceremony at that place. The place where the lotus fell was hence called Pushkar. Another legend states that Lord Brahma saw a demon who was harassing people. He immediately slew the demon with his weapon- the lotus-flower. During this fight , the lotus petals fell on the ground at three places, where springs emerged creating three lakes: the Pushkar Lake or Jyeshta Pushkar (greatest or first Pushkar), the Madya Pushkar (middle Pushkar) Lake, and Kanishta Pushkar (lowest or youngest Pushkar) lake. When Brahma came down to the earth, he named the place where the flower (pushpa) fell from Brahma’s hand (kar) as “Pushkar.”
Pushkar is a town of temples that dot the streets surrounding the holy Pushkar lake. Pilgrims travel from all over India to take ritual baths in the lake and to visit the temples around the lake. There are 52 holy banks (Ghats) of the lake. I stayed at Gau (Sacred Cow) Ghat, one of the several holy banks around the lake. One early morning, I photographed this old couple who undertook the holy bath at the ghats and then changed into fresh clothes for prayers at the bank. Not only was their devotion to the ritual and the lake astounding, but the manner in which they helped each other with the bath was heartwarming and beautiful.
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December 2009
Pushkar, Rajasthan, India
Historically, the lake’s history is said to date back to the 4th century BC. The study of coins date the lake back to this time. Also, inscriptions at Sanchi, Madhya Pradesh also suggest that Pushkar was a site of pilgrimage during the 2nd Century BC. Currently, the lake is 22 square kilometres and is fed by monsoon. However, in recent years, pollution and erratic monsoons have led to a reduction in the depth of the lake.
When I visited Pushkar, the lake was without water and was being manually deepened. However, smaller ponds of lake water were formed at each of the holy banks so that pilgrims could continue with their rituals and baths. Ritual baths with water from the lake are believed to cure ones sins and any skin diseases one might have.
Also seen one early morning, the following photographs are of a female pilgrim taking ritual dip in the holy water. Following the bath, female pilgrims use long sarees as shields behind which they can change into fresh clothes and proceed to pray.
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December 2009
Pushkar, Rajasthan, India
A story of a ninth-century Rajput king states that the king reached the shores of the lake while on a hunting trip and feeling thirsty, put his hand into the lake’s water. His skin disease is supposed to have been cured in a few minutes and as word spread of this, more and more pilgrims flocked to the lake.
Politicized historical accounts also detail the “atrocities” committed by Mughal Kings on the banks of the holy lake. These include “hunting, destruction of temples, slandering Hindus.” Today, Pushkar is an alcohol-free, vegetarian city, where tourists and pilgrims are cautioned to not utter any anti-Hindu remarks.
This set of photographs was taken at Gau (Sacred Cow) Ghat which has recently been re-named Gandhi Ghat (as Mahatma Gandhi’s ashes were submersed here).
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December 2009
Pushkar, Rajasthan, India
As mentioned above, Pushkar is a vegetarian town. Many temples and homes around the Ghats are dotted with cows, goats, dogs, and pigeons. Gau (Sacred Cow) Ghat is particularly known for animals that have adopted it as their home. The pilgrims and the priests in turn adopt the animals as their own.
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December 2009
Pushkar, Rajasthan, India
There are over 500 temples in Pushkar and dawn and dusk are the busiest and most beautiful times for prayer. At dawn, several priests offer prayers at the banks of the lake before they begin their days. At dusk, you can see the last prayers being offered and the sound of temple bells and prayer songs (aartis) take over the entire town.
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December 2009
Pushkar, Rajasthan, India
Pushkar has one of the few Brahma temples in the world. Mythological legend states that he was cursed by his wife (in a fit of anger and jealousy) that he would not be worshipped in temples. Other than the famous Brahma temple, there are around 560 temples in the town and hundreds of holy men.
When you first enter the town on foot (cars are not allowed beyond a point) you are surrounded by priests wanting to save your soul for nothing less than 200 rupees. Tourists are quickly identified (by their backpacks and cameras) and urged to go to the lake immediately, before they do anything else in the town. I am not saying that all the “holy men” in Pushkar are aggressive and looking for tourists, as many stay away from tourists as well, catering to pilgrims from across the country. However, it is interesting to witness the creation and sustenance of the “soul-saving” industry. Also, while I saw holy men and priests everywhere, holy women were rarely seen. The ones that were seen were begging for food and money instead of performing rituals and prayers for tourists and pilgrims.
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December 2009
Pushkar, Rajasthan, India
About 15,000 people live in Pushkar and about 100,000 visitors come to the town every single month (in October-November, during the time of the Pushkar Camel Fair, this number is higher). Previous years have seen 16-17 million visitors a year. Daily life in Pushkar seems to revolve around two things: catering to tourists and catering to pilgrims. While the second involves professions around temples and rituals, the first involves running hostels, markets, restaurants, tour operating companies etc.
On my visit, I noticed that restaurants and hotels had boards in Hebrew and almost all served falafel and muesli. The influx of tourists from Israel has increased significantly in recent years and now sign boards are in Hebrew. Also, every hotel offered me beer and chicken on the sly (I refused), saying that they understood that tourists needed these things. While the locals are exploring business ideas and tourists are indeed generating money in the town, this urbanization and demographic change left a bitter taste in my mouth, raising questions that are difficult to answer.
I tried to ignore this side of Pushkar, preferring to explore the town, the ghats, and the lake and avoiding groups of backpackers and their haunts. But of course, I realize that with my camera and backpack, I was one of them and the best I could do was to acknowledge the limitations this brought to my “capture” of Pushkar.
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January 2011
Sri Srinivasa Perumal Temple, Singapore
Thaipusam is a Hindu festival on a full moon night in the month of Thai (as per the Tamil calendar). Devotees carry a burden (varying from elaborate structures to pots of milk) that is known as the kavadi. The kavadi is attached to the devotee’s body through piercings (or is placed on the devotee’s head) and can sometimes weigh 20-30 kilograms. Additionally, the devotee often pierces parts of his face, chest, back, and tongue. Devotees fast for 48 hours before the morning of Thaipusam and on the day of the festival attach the kavadi to themselves and undertake a set route for pilgrimage (this can include walking 10-15 kilometers). Pilgrimages are made barefoot and by enduring the physical pain, the devotee thanks the lord for his gratitude and prays to him for the well-being of his family.
In Singapore, where a significant portion of the population is from the Tamil community, the pilgrimage begins at Sri Perumal temple and ends at the Tank Road Temple covering about 4.8 kilometers. A small number of ethnically Indian but non-Tamil devotees and a small number of ethnic Chinese and Malay community members also carry out this tradition.
The following set of photographs capture a young man’s preparation for the pilgrimage as his cheeks and tongues are pierced and he is blessed to begin his journey.
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January 2011
Sri Srinivasa Perumal Temple, Singapore
Thaipusam is a Hindu festival on a full moon night in the month of Thai (as per the Tamil calendar). Devotees carry a burden (varying from elaborate structures to pots of milk) that is known as the kavadi. The kavadi is attached to the devotee’s body through piercings (or is placed on the devotee’s head) and can sometimes weigh 20-30 kilograms. Additionally, the devotee often pierces parts of his face, chest, back, and tongue. Devotees fast for 48 hours before the morning of Thaipusam and on the day of the festival attach the kavadi to themselves and undertake a set route for pilgrimage (this can include walking 10-15 kilometers). Pilgrimages are made barefoot and by enduring the physical pain, the devotee thanks the lord for his gratitude and prays to him for the well-being of his family.
In Singapore, where a significant portion of the population is from the Tamil community, the pilgrimage begins at Sri Perumal temple and ends at the Tank Road Temple covering about 4.8 kilometers. A small number of ethnically Indian but non-Tamil devotees and a small number of ethnic Chinese and Malay community members also carry out this tradition.
These photographs were taken in and around the temple as devotees prepared for the pilgrimage, left for the pilgrimage, and walked the set path of the pilgrimage.
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December 2009
Jaipur, Rajasthan, India
In December 2009, I found myself in the old pink-walled city of Jaipur, Rajasthan on the day of Ashura. Ashura is the tenth day in the month of Muharram in the Islamic calendar. For Shi’a Muslims, the day is a time of intense grief and mourning. Mourners congregate at mosques and lament and grieve the death of Husayn. Many make pilgrimages to his shrine in Karbala, Iraq.
In India, processions on the day of Ashura are common in some cities. As Indian Muslims were not able to go to the city of Karbala on Ashura, miniature mausoleums known as ta’ziya began to be made and carried in these processions. Today, thousands of them- in varying sizes, shapes, materials are carried in these processions and buried at the end of Ashura. Families dress up and walk these processions, beating drums and singing songs. In India, even several Hindu families have been known to join the processions and carry ta’ziyas.
The first thing you notice on the Day of Ashura in Jaipur is the heavy police presence. The second is the self-designated “Hindu protectors” who line the area with hockey sticks claiming to ensure that the festival “does not compromise Hindu safety.” With the atmosphere tense, a day that reeked of pluralism in the past has now been reduced to one where the sacred is politicized, and the politicization is violent.
These photographs are of the procession-goers. I managed to capture a few moments, before I was asked to leave by one of the self-appointed moral and religious police. When I came back after ten minutes to get a few more shots, they threatened to break my camera. I stayed on for a while, walking in and alongside the procession and finally as the threats kept coming and as dusk set-in, I took one of the many side-streets and left the area. Barring a few threats and glances, I managed to get out unhurt but furious.
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December 2010
Jaipur, Rajasthan, India
In December 2009, I found myself in the old pink-walled city of Jaipur, Rajasthan on the day of Ashura. Ashura is the tenth day in the month of Muharram in the Islamic calendar. For Shi’a Muslims, the day is a time of intense grief and mourning. Mourners congregate at mosques and lament and grieve the death of Husayn. Many make pilgrimages to his shrine in Karbala, Iraq.
In India, processions on the day of Ashura are common in some cities. As Indian Muslims were not able to go to the city of Karbala on Ashura, miniature mausoleums known as ta’ziya began to be made and carried in these processions. Today, thousands of them- in varying sizes, shapes, materials are carried in these processions and buried at the end of Ashura. Families dress up and walk these processions, beating drums and singing songs. In India, even several Hindu families have been known to join the processions and carry ta’ziyas.
The first thing you notice on the Day of Ashura in Jaipur is the heavy police presence. The second is the self-designated “Hindu protectors” who line the area with hockey sticks claiming to ensure that the festival “does not compromise Hindu safety.” With the atmosphere tense, a day that reeked of pluralism in the past has now been reduced to one where the sacred is politicized, and the politicization is violent.
However, in spite of the obviously tense atmosphere and the threat of violence breaking out, hundreds of spectators line the streets. They sit on walls, balconies, terraces, and stand on the side of the streets- watching the procession. Entire families come out to watch the Ashura procession. Tea-makers, balloon-makers, snacks-sellers walk around these crowds appeasing the young and the old. These photographs are of the many viewers, onlookers, and spectators, who were present on the streets, houses, terraces of the old city- watching the procession as it went by.
I managed to capture these moments, before I was asked to leave by one of the self-appointed moral and religious police “guarding” the area and “protecting” Hindus. When I came back after ten minutes to get a few more shots, they threatened to break my camera. I stayed on for a while, walking in and alongside the procession and finally as the threats kept coming and as dusk set-in, I took one of the many side-streets and left the area. Barring a few threats and glances, I managed to get out unhurt but furious.
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January 2010
Khuri, Rajasthan, India
Khuri is a small village near Jaisalmer in Rajasthan. We stayed there for three days in the homestay offered by a kind man known as Badal Singh. Badal Singh welcomed us into his home and kitchen and taught us many a thing about life and living. We took long walks around the village and the surrounding areas, talking to locals and eating bajra rotis. These photographs are an attempt to depict some aspects of the everyday in Khuri.
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January 2010
Khuri, Rajasthan, India
Near Khuri village are beautiful sand dunes of the Thar desert. While most tourists to these dunes come on tours from the nearby Jaisalmer, a few like me, wander in from the village itself. Many of the village men and boys have camels and camel carts that offer desert rides and safaris. While many of them are polite and genuinely well-versed with the area, the whole experience can be a bit harrowing because of the touts and water/snack sellers.
We did not take a camel ride and instead walked around the desert as I attempted to capture the daily business and lives of the men and boys with camel carts. I absolutely love the desert and experiencing it from Khuri village with ample time and energy was so much better than taking a tourist trip from Jaisalmer.
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August 2011
Cochin, Kerala, India
I attended the Syrian Christian ceremony of Sherene and Ritwik’s inter-religious wedding. They first had a Konkani Hindu ceremony in Bangalore followed by this Christian ceremony in a very progressive church in Kerala. The priest quoted Bhagwad Gita and the Bible (and Einstein) and Kerala was beautiful and rainy.
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July 2011
Budapest, Hungary
Budapest is a very interesting city and I am sad that I haven’t seen much of it in spite of having been there twice. I was there for about a month in July 2011, attending a summer program on Visual Anthropology. While I did get to take out my camera and walk the streets, I was restricted to the area around the university and on the way to the university. Nevertheless, these are some photographs taken on the streets of a city I am definitely going back to.
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July 2011
Vienna, Austria
When I was in Budapest over the summer, my friend Ruth invited me to visit her in Vienna, her hometown. The weekend I selected happened to be the wedding of her best friend’s brother and they were looking for a photographer. So they got these photographs and on a breezy and sunny Sunday I attended my first Jewish wedding. The wedding began with the bride seated on a throne and friends and family greeting her with love and hugs. Then with a lot of music and dance, the groom arrived surrounded by the men in the family and his friends. The groom meets the bride and then proceeds to the Chuppah. The bride then walks to the Chuppah, escorted by the women. They then stand under the Chuppah while prayers are read for them. Wine is then offered to both of them and they are pronounced officially wedded. The bride then removes her veil and the husband breaks the glass- with hugs and Mazel Tovs in the air.
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July 2010
Budapest, Hungary
A friend in Budapest was making a movie on Tango in Budapest. Thanks to him, I climbed up Buda Castle and watched as couples and friends danced the Tango under a moonlit sky surrounded by old silent walls. Beautiful.
“The secret of tango is in this moment of improvisation that happens between step and step.
It is to make the impossible thing possible: to dance silence.”
– Carlos Gavito
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June 2011
Chennai, India
One of my closest friends tied the knot in a Tamil Brahmin Hindu Ceremony in Chennai, India. I wore a saree and photographed – an achievement that must be mentioned in my eulogy, I insist. The photographs are from the Henna/Music ceremony, the Engagement Prayer ceremony, and the Wedding.
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May 2011
Kolkata, India
My dear friend Tito’s Hindu Bengali wedding in the Kolkata summer was beautiful in spite of the 42 degree heat!
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April 2010
Haridwar, India
The pilgrim sees no form but His and knows
That He subsists beneath all passing shows
-Farid ud-Din Attar
A man takes the holy dip in the Ganges and then begins to pray.
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April 2010
Haridwar, India
In this path the eye must cease to see,
And the ear to hear,
Save unto Him, and about Him.
Be as dust on His path.
Even the kings of this earth
Make the dust of His feet
The balm of their eyes.
-Khwaja Abdullah Ansari
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April 2010
Haridwar, India
Shiva’s representatives,
warriors and protectors.
Ash-covered,
carrying tridents and swords;
they only emerge during the Kumbh Mela.
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Reminds me of an incident narrated by somebody I know. A camera-shy and reclusive Naga Sadhus at the Kumbh Mela or Mahashivratri in Benaras got angry with a famous photogrpher who was going on clicking without permission. They chased him away but he used profanity to retaliate. With all the elements that bring character to an image, portraits of a Naga Sadhus always get the attention.
April 2010
Haridwar, India
With hands folded
Eyes closed
But hearts open.
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April 2010
Haridwar, India
To abandon all that He has fashioned
And hold in the palm of my hand
Certain proof that He loves me-
That is the name and the goal of my search.
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Jan 2010
Jaisalmer, Rajasthan, India
My body is smeared
With the dust of Your street.
– Jamali
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January 2011
Jaisalmer, Rajasthan
Cricket in the streets, jumping off buildings.
Small joys. Big world.
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July 2010
Paris with the family
One day we’re gonna live in Paris
I promise
I’m on it
I’ll find you that French boy,
You’ll find me that French girl
I promise
I’m on it.
-Friendly Fires
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2009
Singapore
The Nrityanganas: Sujoyini, Aparna, and Saranya
The Nritya: Bharatnatyam, Kathak, and Folk
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July 2010
Venice
Only an afternoon in Venice.
A hot, tiring afternoon, with the Italians on Strike.
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December 25, 2010
Tampines, Singapore
My friend and colleague Azlin tied the knot in a simple mosque ceremony in Singapore. This was my first Malay wedding and I was impressed by the simplicity. Playing part-photographer, part-bridesmaid, I photographed beautiful Azlin’s wedding while calming her last-minute panic and anxiety.
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December 25, 2010
Tampines, Singapore
My friend and colleague Azlin tied the knot in a simple mosque ceremony in Singapore. This was my first Malay wedding and I was impressed by the simplicity. Playing part-photographer, part-bridesmaid, I photographed beautiful Azlin’s wedding while calming her last-minute panic and anxiety. This set is her transformation into a lovely bride.
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December 2010
Bombay, India
The first wedding I photographed- a good friend Sid married Aastha in an inter-cultural wedding in Bombay. A Tulu-UP wedding with Gujarati elements, it was a fun three days.
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May 2009
Zurich and St. Gallen, Switzerland
I attended a conference in St. Gallen in 2009 and found some time to wander around and capture these moments.
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June 2008
Charles Bridge, Prague, Czech Republic
Exhale. Another wasted breath. Again it goes unnoticed.
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June 2008
Vienna, Austria
A memorable evening in Vienna. As I sat for hours observing with the occasional scribble in my diary and the few pages I read, I watched people enjoy silent moments with their wine glasses and books, engage in long conversations, and embrace their children’s lives. An evening well-spent.
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May-June 2008
Krakow, Prague, Vienna
So many stories of love, sharing, conversation, and compassion. Everywhere I traveled, I saw lives being lived, silences being shared, holidays being captured through food, cameras, and a lot of silliness. These are photographs from around these cities of people being together, be it at an Astronomical Clock, a secluded spot in Krakow, or at a Bob Dylan concert in Vienna.
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June 2008
Main Cemetery, Vienna, Austria
Wandered into this cemetery in Vienna- It was a perfectly manicured place that surprisingly was very calming and warm. Quiet and silent and largely empty even though fresh flowers and candles lay on most graves.
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May-July 2008
Krakow, Poland and Revfulop, Hungary
Capturing other people’s solitude as I enjoyed my solitary travel.
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May 2008
Krakow, Poland
I have to admit. I love benches. When you travel alone, the bench becomes your friend. You read to it, you sing to it, you talk to it, and sometimes, it brings you strangers- who change your lives in ways you may not even notice. Have I told you I love benches? These were taken when I backpacked through Turkey and parts of Eastern Europe alone (mostly) in 2008.
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May 2008
Auschwitz, Poland
When I was in Krakow, I took a local bus and walked a 2-3 kilometres, convinced I was heading nowhere, and then I saw it. Even before you see the remains of horror and violence, you freeze outside the walls.
“How many deaths does it take realize that too many people have died?” (Bob Dylan)
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May-June 2008
Krakow, Budapest, Prague
Vienna, Revfulop, Cesky Raj
Assorted images from a wonderful summer. In 2008, I decided to backpack across Turkey and bits of Eastern Europe, mostly by myself. I started with a day in Istanbul, followed by Slovakia, Poland, Czech Republic, Hungary, Austria, and a few weeks in Turkey. My first big solo trip- and I was hardly alone, making friends along the way, many of whom are still a big part of my life.
The northern air,
still carries the sound of my prayer,
Hearts break and time takes its toll on
the places we go.
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July 2007
Ramallah, West Bank, Palestine
DAILY life here involves long queues, harassment and questioning, security checks, waiting and more waiting. We all look at airplane security checks and crib about taking out our laptops. Imagine if you had to do that and much more daily- so you could get to work, or get home to your kids. And imagine, if you urgently needed medical attention, and they stopped you for you did not have the right permits. That is daily life at the A-Ram Checkpoint (and others).
At this checkpoint, I met the Makhsom Checkpoint Watch Women- Jewish women who volunteer at the checkpoints to ensure the soldiers do not harass the Palestinians in anyway. I stood in the huge metal revolving door and kept walking and then suddenly in a fraction of a second, the door stopped and I banged into the metal bars, hurting my head. One of the women looked at me and said- “Oh they did to you, what they do the Palestinians.” DAILY.
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July 2007
Jerusalem-Bethlehem, Palestine
In Jerusalem, and I mean within the ancient walls,
I walk from one epoch to another without a memory to guide me.
The prophets over there are sharing the history of the holy
… ascending to heaven and returning less discouraged and melancholy,
because love and peace are holy and are coming to town.
I was walking down a slope and thinking to myself:
How do the narrators disagree over what light said about a stone?
Is it from a dimly lit stone that wars flare up?
-Mahmoud Darwish (Now, As You Awaken)
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July 2007
Bethlehem, Palestine
Our cups of coffee. Birds green trees
In the blue shade, the sun gambols from one wall
To another like a gazelle
The water in the clouds has the unlimited shape of what is left to us
Of the sky. And other things of suspended memories
Reveal that this morning is powerful and splendid,
And that we are the guests of eternity.
- Mahmoud Darwish (Under Siege)
I was in Bethlehem in 2007. While I was told to just “book a tour, like everyone else,” I (wisely) decided not to. I took the bus from Damascus Gate of Jerusalem, went to the checkpoint, crossed to other side, and walked for a long, long time. I made it to the Church of Nativity, yes. But that was merely a reference point. I walked through small streets, drank coffee with strangers, and discussed Shahrukh Khan and the Amitabh Bachchan with the locals, who occupy their time with Bollywood, while the occupation ensures their shops remain off the tourist trails.
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July 2007
Jerusalem, Palestine
In the state of siege, time becomes space
Transfixed in its eternity
In the state of siege, space becomes time
That has missed its yesterday and its tomorrow.
- Darwish
In these streets of the Old City of Jerusalem, you often forget the bigger picture. Sadly, in the bigger picture, you often forget the smaller stories of everyday resistance, courage, and living.
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July 2007
Bethlehem, Palestine
I am Not a Terrorist. We Weep for Palestine. The Wall Must Fall. Free Philistine. I can’t say this enough.
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2007
Cairo and Alexandria- Egypt
With a very terrible camera, I captured these moments in Egypt (Masr) and though I cringe at the quality, I can’t let go.
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July 2007
Cairo, Egypt
A camel tout takes a break from the tourists and wanders off to a lonely patch at the pyramids in Giza- a sheer rarity.
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2007
Cairo and Luxor, Egypt
A few places I carry with me, even after leaving Cairo and Egypt.
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July 2007
Mount Sinai, Egypt
What’s better than climbing Mount Sinai to see the sunrise while wrapped in a blanket that has been rented to you at an exorbitant price? Not climbing all the way up. And instead, talking to and hanging out with the guides and their families. The men and children who guide tourists and pilgrims to the top of Mount Sinai every single night. (Also, this way you skip the 700 stairs at the end and still get to see a pretty awesome sunrise.)
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May 2006
Bago City, Philippines
I went on a Youth Expedition Project to the Philippines while I was an undergraduate. For about 3 weeks, we built a library for the children of Bago City and then we furnished it with books we had collected over months via donations. We also did a host of other activities and campaigns in this small town and I spend a few days with a beautiful family who did not have much but was kind enough to make me feel at home and more. This was possibly the first time I realized I liked photographing and standing on the periphery, clicking and unnoticed. I had a pretty lame and cheap digital camera in those days, so please excuse the quality of the images.
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